Dubai, UAE
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Dubai: The Old City Behind the Towers

Dubai sells its skyline and keeps a nineteenth-century trading port ten minutes away by metro.

Things To Do Editorial

August 15, 2026 · 3 min read

Key takeaways

  • Al Fahidi, also called Bastakiya — a restored quarter of coral and gypsum houses with wind towers, an early passive air conditioning that channels breeze down into the rooms.
  • Abras — small wooden boats crossing Dubai Creek for one dirham.
  • Burj Khalifa — levels 124/125 at one price, 148 considerably higher.

Dubai markets the skyline. Two miles away sits a nineteenth-century trading port, on the metro, that most visitors never reach — and it is the more interesting half.

The old city in Dubai

The old city

Al Fahidi, also called Bastakiya — a restored quarter of coral and gypsum houses with wind towers, an early passive air conditioning that channels breeze down into the rooms.

Narrow shaded lanes, small museums, galleries and courtyard cafés.

Dubai Museum in the Al Fahidi fort, the oldest building in the city.

The Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding runs meals and discussions where questions about Emirati life and Islam are explicitly invited.

The creek

Abras — small wooden boats crossing Dubai Creek for one dirham. They depart when full, have run for generations, and are the most atmospheric thing in the city.

On the Deira side:

The Gold Souk, priced by weight plus a negotiable making charge.

The Spice Souk, adjacent.

The dhow wharfage, where wooden cargo boats still load goods by hand for Iran, India and East Africa. A working port rather than a display.

The modern city in Dubai

The modern city

Burj Khalifa — levels 124/125 at one price, 148 considerably higher. Sunset slots cost more and go first.

The cheaper version: a drink at a bar in a nearby tower, which gets you a view of the Burj.

The Dubai Fountain outside the mall — free, every half hour in the evening.

The Museum of the Future, architecturally striking, timed entry.

Dubai Marina and JBR for the beach and the walk.

Palm Jumeirah, best understood from the monorail.

The desert

Quality varies enormously.

Quieter conservation-reserve operators are considerably better than the large dune-bashing convoys, which put dozens of vehicles on the same dunes.

Ask about group size, whether the camp is shared with other operators, and the wildlife policy.

Hatta, in the mountains, for hiking and the dam — a different landscape entirely.

Abu Dhabi in Dubai

Abu Dhabi

90 minutes away, and the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is free, enormous, and requires full covering including a headscarf for women, provided at the entrance.

Louvre Abu Dhabi, under Jean Nouvel's perforated dome that filters light like palm fronds.

Practical

Season: November to March at 24–30°C. June to September exceeds 40°C with humidity and confines you indoors.

The metro is cheap and covers the main axis; a Nol card covers it and the buses.

Dress modestly in the old city, souks and malls. Beach and hotel areas are relaxed.

Ramadan changes opening hours and daytime eating in public; the dates move each year.

Frequently asked questions

What is there to do in old Dubai?

Al Fahidi, a restored nineteenth-century quarter of coral and gypsum houses with wind towers, the Dubai Museum in the old fort, the gold and spice souks across the creek, and the dhow wharfage where wooden cargo boats still load by hand for Iran and East Africa.

How much does an abra cost in Dubai?

One dirham. The small wooden boats have ferried passengers across Dubai Creek for generations, depart when full, and are both the cheapest transport in the city and the most atmospheric thing in it.

Is the Burj Khalifa observation deck worth it?

The view is remarkable and it is expensive, with levels 124 and 125 at one price and level 148 considerably higher. Sunset slots cost more and sell out first. A drink at a bar in a nearby tower costs less and gives you a view containing the Burj itself.

What should you look for in a Dubai desert tour?

Quieter conservation-reserve operators rather than the large dune-bashing convoys, which cover the same ground with far more vehicles and noise. Ask about group size, whether the camp is shared with other operators, and what the wildlife policy is.

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